Walking a cobbled lane, we hunt for the letter C as we explore Breb, a village in Romania’s Maramures region. Our farm-stay host, Ione, suggested the route. So far, blue Cs have been scarce. On our right, a woven fence -think linear basket- encloses a farmhouse yard. We hear gruff barks, and through fence slats spot a humongous, chained, muddy dog.
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